In the heart of Hackney, a new culinary adventure awaits, and it's a tale of clowns, cuisine, and the ever-evolving landscape of London's restaurant scene. Auguste, a recent addition to the vibrant E8, invites us to explore its unique charm and character.
A Clown's Tale
The name Auguste, inspired by a clown, sets the tone for a dining experience that is both playful and profound. As we step into the restaurant, an Edward Hopper painting, 'Soir Bleu', hangs as a reminder of the tragic beauty that lies beneath the surface. It's a metaphor for the hospitality industry, a world where smiles are painted on, and the challenges are often hidden.
A Hip Transformation
Auguste takes over the former Papi, a well-known spot in the area. The transformation is subtle yet significant. It retains the hip, European influence, but with a twist - a focus on the Italian region of Abruzzo. The menu, a celebration of small plates and low-intervention wines, continues the trend set by Papi, but with a new, refined twist.
The Mobbed Scene
On a Wednesday night, just weeks after opening, Auguste is packed. The old Papi crowd, like loyal ants, has followed, unaware of the queen's new chamber. The atmosphere is electric, and the arrosticini, tiny kebabs grilled to perfection, are the star attraction. With a choice of meats and dipping sauces, they are a testament to the live-fire craze sweeping London's hospitality scene.
A Menu of Contrasts
The menu is a journey through central Italy, with dishes like coppa stagionata and wild boar-stuffed morels. We started with potato rösti, a creamy blue cheese delight, but the soft rösti couldn't quite support the topping. The cured sea bream, served with a unique puttanesca salsa, was a highlight, although the salsa could have been a tad more refined. The cappelletti in broth was authentic and satisfying, while the asparagus with peas and wild garlic cream was a fresh delight.
A Coherent Dinner?
As with many small plates restaurants, the meal at Auguste felt like a collection of brilliant ideas rather than a cohesive dinner. The arrosticini, while delicious, arrived late, and the lamb was a touch too pink. The desserts, limited to two options, were rustic and edible, but lacked the finesse of the savory courses.
A Circus in Town
Auguste shows glimpses of greatness, but there's room for improvement. It has, however, a loyal fan base, who, whether aware or not, have embraced this new circus in town. The restaurant, with its unique character and dedicated following, is a testament to the ever-evolving nature of London's culinary scene.
A Final Thought
Auguste is a fascinating addition to Hackney's dining scene, offering a unique blend of cuisine, atmosphere, and character. It's a place where the lines between clowning around and serious dining are beautifully blurred.
